Jump to content

Cosmetic restorations


EXUPDEL
 Share

Recommended Posts

Without getting all piss and weathers about it What are peoples thoughts on sorting the cosmetics on bikes.

Over the last couple of years I have been scratching my itch to rebuild bikes. So far I have done a Firestorm VFR750 and 2 CBR600 steelies. Mechanically they are pretty much sorted. So rather than find another project this winter I am gonna start sorting the cosmetics.

I am interested in peoples experiences of plating, powder coating and cerakote.

Preferences for specific parts pit falls etc etc

I have just dropped of a load of parts for powder coating Fork legs, engine covers and top yokes. The company were making all the right noises about masking and plugging threaded holes etc. Originally I wanted to get Cerakote but was persuaded to go powder as it's more durable.

Refinishing the CBR frames is on the list I would also like to do the cases of the engines but am unsure whether to strip them to bare cases or if they can be done without stripping.

As for alloy parts Foot rest hangers etc I want to get them plated in Iridite NCP. 

Right I'll throw the topic open and see what happens 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm all for it, but as with everything, it depends how far you're prepared to go on it. Every fixing, fastener, bracket, hose clip, but, bolt etc. 

I'd love to take a classic R1 for example and make it like new. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having started a major rebuild/refurbishment project I can so how cathartic it is to get bits really clean and recoated! 

I stopped short of stripping the engine and getting that coated as I'd like to use it next year... 

Bolting bits together just seems better when they are like/better than new. 

Regarding the powder coating I hope their masking is better than the company I used, it took me ages to retap all the threads. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lots off alloy components like aquablasting. The mechanical nature of the blasting leaves you with bare alloy, but also surface planishes the part making it more corrosion resistant. You will not have the same resistance to corrosion as an anodised part, but does look so much better than the painted alloy finish that most manufacturers give you. Oily rag and cleanliness afterwards, but I'm guessing you're not going to be parking something that you like on the seafront over winter.

Something like a fork stanchion where you need to keep the finish on the chrome/hard surface, I'd want to do at home with paint.

Really good powder coaters should be choosing Aqua over Grit- Blasting for steel components, but the majority of powder coaters are monkeys and like the powder to stick to anything from pub signs to JCB buckets, so beware.

Engines are difficult....Soda blasting will take off old paint and any corrosion, but you will be exposing the whole thing to imminent melt down and it will start to turn furry almost before your eyes. If anybody tells you that they can Aqua blast an engine just by masking it off, they are lying. If you choose to go that route just to get it clean and shiny I guarantee that every gasket will be breached, every seal will be in tatters and almost every component inside the engine will be full of sharp sand particles. It does require a complete engine strip and all the bearings out of the cases. 

Really delicate components like Electrical boxes and Magnesium Carbs can be stripped with Walnut, but I've yet to find anybody that can do it. Is more a job for Ultrasonics.

Finishing is about preferences of how it looks. Paint is all that powder is, at the end of the day, but powder can be very clever. Frames, rocker boxes, side cases, subframes....powder. You might have some masking issues, but nothing drastic.

If you soda blast a a set of engine cases, you might be able to clear lacquer it, preferably with a matt finish. Is a metric fuck-ton of work. Game here is that you need to get it soda blasted, rub every detail down with something like 320 grit paper, get it all perfectly prepped and then get it clean again ready for clear lacquer. Any overnight break in the process and there' every chance that it will have corroded enough to make it a poor finish.

Exotic finishes are usually expensive and I guess you can tell from what I've posted here just what you will be paying for. Prices that I've come across for Ceracoat etc on steel/stainless/Ti products have made my eyes water....I am talking conversations about brand new components 

I'm still working on a long term acquaintance that i hope to drag into PTFE/Teflon coating a Head and a set of Barrels for my project. I think it might be good for making a set of Brembos better than standard, but the preparation time and Labour involved will just be fucking about when they have a sexier version off the shelf.

Oh and then we get to plating.....

All those little steel brackets that have gone rusty....throw them in a bucket of vinegar (white is cheapest) leave for 24 hours. Run a wire brush over them to make sure that that they have not rusted to the point of failure.

CAD plate them, oh and all those screws/bolts.....Nickel Cadmium Plating is standard passivation for every steel component from most manufacturers. Comes in various colours. Can be painted over. |Be aware though, if you send a bucket of this shit to a platers they will probably lose a load of it. You can do this at home. 12v battery charger and a fish tank. Never tried it. There are some cold dip black/blueing finishes that are good for Hard steels, maybe HT bolts. Gunmetal Steel finishing for machine steel is also possible, but rare in bikes also needs boiled down whales and high temperatures like kilns...again not tried this at home. :lol:

Spindles are a problem in my eyes...Swinger/wheel. Wire brush and lots of grease. You shouldn't Cad plate them, it's just soft surface corrosion resist. Where I cannot resist is Nickel plating on a polish...lovely..expensive again....can be over an  hours work for an experienced polisher to get it ready to plate...the treads also chew up polishing wheels for fun and they are pant wetting expensive. It usually only going to be a job that chews up the last of a wheel....so expect a big lead time.

Oh and finally...you want something chromed......Hahahahahahahahahah....Buy a new one.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Mark/Foggy
  • Like 5
  • Thanks 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a chemical called decarb77 for stripping ally back to bare, works really well but won’t remove corrosion which really needs aqua blasting, grit blasting can be a bit aggressive for engine cases etc and can ware threads if not careful, I’ve got a floor standing parts cleaning bosh which is a godsend as I hate working on things covered in filth but bench top ones aren’t expensive. A bucket of diesel of paraffin is really cheap for parts cleaning and good for releasing stubborn bolts etc.

https://www.surechemicals.co.uk/industrial-products/paint-strippers/decarb-77-rtu-solvent-decarboniser-and-paint-stripper

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got an early 1100 Slabside sitting covered up in my barn needing a total referb. I wheeled in it there ........8 years ago i would guess. 

I would love to go through it like some people do but restricted in both patience and not knowing all the little stuff that makes a good restoration. 

Pretty convinced it would be one of those ' unfinshed projects ' that sit on ebay 

Edited by Mr Tea
Link to comment
Share on other sites

52 minutes ago, Mr Tea said:

I've got an early 1100 Slabside sitting covered up in my barn needing a total referb. I wheeled in it there ........8 years ago i would guess. 

I would love to go through it like some people do but restricted in both patience and not knowing all the little stuff that makes a good restoration. 

Pretty convinced it would be one of those ' unfinshed projects ' that sit on ebay 

When i reach retirement age, i'd love to do it as a job/living. However compared to somewhere like the US, i'm not convinced there's a market for making a living doing it.

These bikes here seem to make insane money, so buying a shitter for £2500 and putting in £4000, you then need £6500 to even break even, which i think is rarely the case with bikes in the UK market. You'd really want to be clearing £9000 to make some money for the number of hours you're putting in and we know that's completely impossible.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

^ this.

Oh, cheap life hacks...

Vinegar will eat most of the surface rust off steel components like spindles/fasteners and brackets.

Buy a gallon of it for a quid and dump it all in a bucket. Works wonders, but be aware that if it was cad plated before it started rusting, the cad plate will flake off.

Anhydrous Citric Acid that you can buy in large quantities well get the fur off aluminium nicely. Just make a solution or paste with water and watch it carefully.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I sent a load of OE fasteners (nearly 4kg worth!) to Brian at Centurion motorcycle Projects https://centurionmotorcycleprojects.com/ for plating. I posted them to him and he received them on tuesday, I got an email from him today (thursday) to say they're all done! I'll start a project thread when they get back to me, and let you know what the quality is like.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My plating arrived back today. 12 days turn around, including 2 weekends; which also includes posting time. I'd say that's pretty dam good.

As far as lost parts go, from over 150 items, I'm missing an m6 washer, and a fuel pipe clip, both of which I'm sure are available from Honda for a few pence.

I knew when I sent the parts away, that some of them were too badly pitted and rusty to be restored to brand new condition, so the fact that they came back pitted, but plated was the best I could hope for. A couple of bolts still have slightly grubby threads, so I suppose the prep could have been slightly better if I'm being really picky, but on the whole I'm very happy with it. The bike they're going on is being tidied up to race, not just be a lounge ornament, however, it may still be kept in my lounge!

So if anyone is in the market to have fasteners etc re-plated, I would highly recommend https://centurionmotorcycleprojects.com/ :thumbsup:

Edited by wazrs257
  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brian is top guy.  Parked next to him at a cadwell track weekend a couple of years ago. Quite a handy rider on his gsxr1100 track bike.

What did he charge for that lot?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Superdunc said:

Brian is top guy.  Parked next to him at a cadwell track weekend a couple of years ago. Quite a handy rider on his gsxr1100 track bike.

What did he charge for that lot?

Was £60/kg. Long bolts and spindles were charged separately @£7.50 each. Re-plate and clear passivate.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...