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hawkati
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11 hours ago, firebeast said:

What size is that rear to squeeze in the gull swingarm,, I know what you ran, but as its a different mota and wide chain I am curious how many mm between chain and tyre edge.. 😉

Think that new red exhaust hangar may get in the way of your foot a bit btw,, 👀

It's a blade rear with a 180/55 tyre, plenty of space between tyre & chain. I borrowed a friend's lathe to take 12mm off the sprocket carrier so the whole lot would fit in the swingarm. Sadly I bunged the standard chain & sprockets on - a massive 630 item but in future I'd be looking for 525 options.

The bungee was just to hold the zorst roughly in place while I did the header bolts - a surprisingly fiddly task getting the headers aligned. Anyway, tis done but I'll be looking at raising the rearsets about 10mm. 

Getting there....bloody annoying when the last thing at night is thinking of wiring looms and you wake thinking the same!🤪

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58 minutes ago, hawkati said:

It's a blade rear with a 180/55 tyre, plenty of space between tyre & chain. I borrowed a friend's lathe to take 12mm off the sprocket carrier so the whole lot would fit in the swingarm. Sadly I bunged the standard chain & sprockets on - a massive 630 item but in future I'd be looking for 525 options.

The bungee was just to hold the zorst roughly in place while I did the header bolts - a surprisingly fiddly task getting the headers aligned. Anyway, tis done but I'll be looking at raising the rearsets about 10mm. 

Getting there....bloody annoying when the last thing at night is thinking of wiring looms and you wake thinking the same!🤪

Forgot you had mentioned the wheel before actually.. 😣  Have you put a level on the pipes to check where they 'should' sit height wise? It does look like it's all sat well mate 👍

I doubt the wiring is that much of an issue other than the tps and just some stuff not being exactly in the same places ,I would guess you can run a direct line to the cdi rather than messing with the loom too much, for now atleast? I have got wiring diagram for the tri arm if you wanted a shot of it sent over,  but as yours had the 600 lump I presume it may not be totally original? 

The cdi wiring is just a case of moving the individual pins about that don't fit in the correct places, it's all easy moved and the colours should be the same for both the bikes so no confusions there, provided you have a blade loom or picture of the cdi plug and know which is the tps.. If I have an old loom kicking about I could cut a cdi pin off with some attached wiring if your stuck 

On my old nc29 gull, I fitted a hrc cdi and the only thing hrc did, that was different, to stop you thinking you could use it without the matching race only loom and therefore charged accordingly 😣 was moved the ignition timing pin across into another empty slot,, but I needed the hrc loom cdi plug to notice of course..so I kept my lights etc. Back before we had Internet nerds with all the info.. 😉

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Fingers crossed I should be alright with matching loom to engine, and the throttle position sensor fitted just fine once I'd taken 2mm out of the frame where the downpiece meets the main spar.

I'm trying to be as accurate as possible with the build but if I was doing it all again I'd kill for a pillar drill!🤪 

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So a bit more work done. Frame is filed & engine mounted solidly, and chain runs freely. On a whim I decide to undo sump plug to drain any last remnants of old oil....and a full load of new oil comes out! Nevermind eh?

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I mostly likes honda universal fits, so delighted that blade ignition bolts straight in without fuss, but connector blocks are different from that on the loom. There's absolutely no such thing as an old loom that hasn't been fukkered about with different blocks and vile sticky insulation tape so I deploy pointy thing to determine which wires are where. It's not great - I'll either have to swap several connector blocks or trade ignition & control switches. Gnash.

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Nonetheless,  progress and it's looking a bit like a bike now. I'll aim to get it running then worry about all the ancillaries - power is everything dammit.

Put an extending block on the sifestand though because it threatened to tip over all the time even before I'd bunged a tank of fuel on it. Erk.

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Despite damn all sleep today (nightshifts) I find time to do a couple of things - there's such a multitude of fiddly little shite things to finish this that I've got to get on with it now or I'll screw up nearer kick off time. 

Therefore tonight it's all about the fluids - I fill it with Technolube (phnarr!) Fully synthetic. It's cheap, cheerful and it'll do a fine job of cleaning the insides before I bung some motul and another filter in just before the event.

I check the engine is turning over alright with a ratchet - dead easy, and soak the insides of the expansion tank with water & a squirt of harpic. Doesn't clear it much but a lot of filth came out, double phnarr.

Connected radiator to hoses,  fitted thermostat & cap, started on radiator mounts then it got dark and cold so I packed it all in. Moar tomorrow,  probably - other tasks whilst waiting for the buggy, tools to extract wires from connector blocks and perform loom voodoo.

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Oh, and to annoy @trident_special I've got some £3.99 bar end mirrors. @Thunderbolthas offered to fit them because he's brutal & grounded at that kind of thing...

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Small Allen keys are good for popping the wires out James. Bit of practice and it's dead easy.👍

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21 minutes ago, firebeast said:

Small Allen keys are good for popping the wires out James. Bit of practice and it's dead easy.👍

Now that's not a bad shout - I've tomorrow off so might go at it. I've the loom of doom from a cbr 600 as well so I'll rip connector blocks off that...cheers!

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10 hours ago, hawkati said:

Now that's not a bad shout - I've tomorrow off so might go at it. I've the loom of doom from a cbr 600 as well so I'll rip connector blocks off that...cheers!

Maybe less rip and more gently, ease them off.  No hammers at all required on this stuff, ok😏

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4 minutes ago, firebeast said:

Maybe less rip and more gently, ease them off.  No hammers at all required on this stuff, ok😏

Awwww.....

 

 

You're not my real dad anyway, etc...

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When you start, maybe use a small light or your phone torch at the opposite end, if its possible, to you see where the little bit of metal clip is, that need pushing in, so you can then pop the wire out. 

First used them to pop out wiring on hrc track loom and standard nc29 looms, over 20 yrs ago.. 👍

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I find soaking them in a few for a day or two helps as well.

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46 minutes ago, Thunderbolt said:

I find soaking them in a few for a day or two helps as well.

Cheers- I'll throw the loom of doom into a vat of wine.

That's what you meant isn't it?🤪

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36 minutes ago, hawkati said:

Cheers- I'll throw the loom of doom into a vat of wine.

That's what you meant isn't it?🤪

Sorry awetoecrekt 

ACF

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30 minutes ago, Thunderbolt said:

Sorry awetoecrekt 

ACF

Good stuff. Yummy.

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Is it alive yet?

 

The clocks ticking you know and the 996 is ready for action, even if you're wrists aren't 🤣

 

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1 hour ago, Herr V. said:

Is it alive yet?

 

The clocks ticking you know and the 996 is ready for action, even if you're wrists aren't 🤣

 

No.

Fucking. 

Way.

Gunning for it this weekend- but I'm also throwing an engine into the hawk as back up just in case...

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It's shite & cold and wet out there so I'm taking work indoors. Here be an ancient loom of doom and I'm ripping connector blocks off it to match up to the blade loom. Very damn fiddly but a hell of a lot cheaper than getting blade clocks & controls. Lots of leccy contact cleaner and I've got the woodstove going just fine.

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Operation_Upshot-Knothole_-_Badger_001

 

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Lemmy see....

Attacked wiring loom, got engine turning over but no spark, not the least because ignition & start/kills witch have different colour wires to diagrams. 

Fitted radiator & mounted fan. Fitted rear indicators,  and speedo drive switches (pulled pin on blade clocks due to wiring nightmare & opportunity to use later wheel & discs. Nice) - I'll sell the cbr400 clocks for the same amount. 

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Titted about fitting rear brake light switch - a very basic mounting but it will be used once for the mot then ignored forever. 

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Done for the day now. Time for a food frenzy.

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How is the room looking up front between rad and wheel etc now it's all fitted James? 

As for wiring,, are you saying the diagram that you have is a different year/model to your motor , or that the motor colours aren't correct somehow /altered? 

I would have thought that period blade, like cbr4 and 6 etc would be extremely similar in most aspects, as I said before, so kind of surprised its a big issue? 

Oh and from memory,which may be a bit shady, lol, I think the tri arm wheel may be lighter than the 6 spoke gullarm/600 wheel, if you looking to balance the looks,, though it's hardly likely to make much difference,, 👍

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Been meaning to ask for ages as well, WTF is with those gold footrest levers 😏

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9 minutes ago, firebeast said:

Been meaning to ask for ages as well, WTF is with those gold footrest levers 😏

Ah - those were the rearsets I fitted on my first hawk, the basis of the hawkati that will never be. The original footpegs on the hawk/bros were shite, with laughable Lean Indicators to add insult to injury caused by the bloody things grounding out way too early. 

Any self respecting rider on a bros/hawk can ground the pegs and then the zorst at which point the rear wheel lifts off the deck and you're likely to be toast. At the time Chafong were an affordable option, as was cutting away the midbox of the exhaust and fitting a cut down silencer. 

It would still hit the deck but by that time the 160 tyre was off the edge of tread and you'd be shit out of luck!😂😂😂

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Just looked at the loom again, it has what look like similar indicator connectors to my old 6 fx from 99, so I clearly don't have a clue when big h changed their blocks etc over,lol, but the fx loom was VERY different to any earlier Honda bike I owned,, including a 96 gullarm and 97 vfr750,  so good luck with all that James.. 👍

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Yup.....even with honda it seems that looms aren't identical and after 25ish years it's a bit of a dog's dinner. Suffice to say a couple of connector blocks are different and a couple more are so fukkered I'm having to start from scratch.

On course though - hoping to have it running by the end of the week. Then onwards and downwards with such items as overflow, lighting etc. I'll be over the fucking moon once it's going and the target is using it at Oulton Park on May 26th.

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Always gobsmacked that we've never been nicked enough masse when we've done these runs so in the true spirit of getting away with it I've bunged shiney can on the bike with added silencing. Yes, as well as the dB killer I screwed into the exhaust I added a couple of spiral steel scourers. They work - stealth mode will be applied, silent but violent.

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just a few moments to spare before motogp so tided rear brake reservoir and remote for the shock with cable ties as well.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Engaging help of sparky mate on Monday to sort out loom because it's just wierd.

Meanwhile I thought I'd best get on with the front end. Forks were vile - blown seals and lowers just looking shite so seals renewed & luvverly fresh oil bunged in. Then a swift clean up & repaint of lowers - painted calipers as well for the hell of it but they'll need stripping and I'll nick the ebc hh pads from the hawk because they're very very good.

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Oh - and changed fromt tyre for matching dunlop roadsport2. 

Edited by hawkati
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10 hours ago, hawkati said:

I'll nick the ebc hh pads from the hawk because they're very very good

I know it's meant to be no money spent, but considering the extra power, weight and SPEED, I would say finding an upgrade to standard hh would be helpful, on track especially 

https://www.sbs.dk/products-1/brake-pads/627rst

These seem new, but suspect it's the old racing sintered compound..  Which is the RS, there is also an upgraded hh as well, the dc compound is more track only.. 

If you look at the amount of brands/models of bike using them on the link ,, which is vast for that caliper, in the past, ebay on occasion has had pairs going really cheap for models etc that aren't selling well or are just old sets in stock . Few folks on here like me love the rs pad James and really help on track over hh.. No Bedding in needed on my sets when fitted either, so you can fit them before Cadwell and will be a lot better /safer 👍

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2 hours ago, firebeast said:

I know it's meant to be no money spent, but considering the extra power, weight and SPEED, I would say finding an upgrade to standard hh would be helpful, on track especially 

https://www.sbs.dk/products-1/brake-pads/627rst

These seem new, but suspect it's the old racing sintered compound..  Which is the RS, there is also an upgraded hh as well, the dc compound is more track only.. 

If you look at the amount of brands/models of bike using them on the link ,, which is vast for that caliper, in the past, ebay on occasion has had pairs going really cheap for models etc that aren't selling well or are just old sets in stock . Few folks on here like me love the rs pad James and really help on track over hh.. No Bedding in needed on my sets when fitted either, so you can fit them before Cadwell and will be a lot better /safer 👍

Thank you - good to know. 

Fingers crossed this will be a bike of two halves (not literally) - pre and post charity ride. Make do for now and if it proves its worth and handles ok then I'd aim to level up with a blade front end and a decent rear shock to make it a fun trackday toy.

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Started on calipers, but pistons were really shit so for now I've bunged the hawk brakes on. Not pretty but perfectly functional for now. Useful for when loading into murdervan tomorrow and taking to a sparky to get the bloody thing going. He owes me so I'm not budget busting* 

Unklefukker brakes

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Hawk brakes now on Unklefukker. 

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*already done that **

 

 

 

**not much though, don't judge me!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Looking like it's pulse generator or module fukkered....jaysas!

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8 hours ago, hawkati said:

Looking like it's pulse generator or module fukkered....jaysas!

Can you please check the pink wire in the cdi’s voltage to the negative on the battery?

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