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Nsr250 Mc21se Rothnans


paul8899
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Gave the last cheap fix a go tonight ( swapping the coils over ) aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand it's still the same, only firing on the top cylinder.

So out with the multimeter

Both coils made a full circuit ( positive to negative )

Both coil wires gave the same reading

Both of the power wires from the coil wires on the loom made a circuit when I earthed onto the frame

I traced the power wires from the coils to were it goes into the PGM box and there was a full circuit

Looks like I've got a part dead pgm

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13 hours ago, paul8899 said:

Gave the last cheap fix a go tonight ( swapping the coils over ) aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand it's still the same, only firing on the top cylinder.

So out with the multimeter

Both coils made a full circuit ( positive to negative )

Both coil wires gave the same reading

Both of the power wires from the coil wires on the loom made a circuit when I earthed onto the frame

I traced the power wires from the coils to were it goes into the PGM box and there was a full circuit

Looks like I've got a part dead pgm

Remember me saying check NSR forums for "PGM fail" ;)

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Paul

I had a problem with my TZ problem on the top cylinder.

It’s wasn't really firing and with a steady small throttle just wisps of smoke were present. If you opened the throttle it chimed in, but still not right and, as expected, the pipe was noticeably cooler.

Checked the spark and it looked good, top end had been refreshed and PVs shimmed.

I tried replacement (known good) parts:

• Coil

• Plug cap

• Carb

• Spark plug from bottom cylinder (loathe to put in a new £50 one in a bad cylinder)

The symptoms were exactly the same.

I could only think of bottom end, as all else has been replaced.

Before I split the cases I asked on the TZ forum. The first response was change the loom. I had one in my spares kit and when fitted it sorted it.

Could you make up a mini loom just for the ignition circuit?

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I had my pgm checked by a mate today and it's not that that's causing the misfire, the power valve motor doesn't seem to be working properly so when I get it back I'll get it sent over to sunny Greece for a check.

I'm getting a stator,flywheel and pick-ups from a running bike to try so at least I'll know if it's the ignition that's at fault, I'll have to see if I can scrounge a loom as well, if I can't scrounge one I'll have a go at making a temp loom up.

If the problem doesn't go away then the next thing I'll try is to check that the centre crank seal hasn't failed as this could cause it to run badly, if the seals check out ok then I'll pull the barrel off and see if there's anything damaged or missing.

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26 minutes ago, paul8899 said:

I had my pgm checked by a mate today and it's not that that's causing the misfire, the power valve motor doesn't seem to be working properly so when I get it back I'll get it sent over to sunny Greece for a check.

I'm getting a stator,flywheel and pick-ups from a running bike to try so at least I'll know if it's the ignition that's at fault, I'll have to see if I can scrounge a loom as well, if I can't scrounge one I'll have a go at making a temp loom up.

If the problem doesn't go away then the next thing I'll try is to check that the centre crank seal hasn't failed as this could cause it to run badly, if the seals check out ok then I'll pull the barrel off and see if there's anything damaged or missing.

If you have identified that the RC valve motor is not working properly, STOP ALL TESTS IMMEDIATELY, you are risking your PGM. 

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2 minutes ago, Dexter21 said:

If you have identified that the RC valve motor is not working properly, STOP ALL TESTS IMMEDIATELY, you are risking your PGM. 

The power valves aren't seized and they seem to turn easily enough by hand.

When I try it again I'll dis-connect the cables so the servo isn't actually doing anything which shouldn't ( hopefully ) damage anything.

To be honest a broken pgm is the least of the bikes worries, if it doesn't start working soon I'm going to burn it :)

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8 hours ago, tanuki said:

Be interesting to know what the original colour of this bike was....is the sticker still on the subframe?

The sticker on the subframe was damaged and there was only half a code visible. It's away for powder coating so I'll never know for sure now.

Going by the colour of the wheels, tank and spare panels that came with it I think that originaly it looked like this

9062938_orig_zpsdb4ao83y.jpg

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2 minutes ago, tanuki said:

Make that happen again....

I had a 21R in those colours although it had white wheels and white number boards.

 

I'll have to see if I can get the bloody thing working before I make any long term plans for it.

At the moment it's on the naughty step !

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I can get a set of main bearings and seals for around £250 but then I'd have to get it rebuilt ( I think I could do it myself but it would be an expensive experiment if it goes wrong ) or I can look into getting a new crank.

It all depends on the cost difference, while I've got the engine in bits I'll see how the pistons look as well.

I still haven't checked that the pistons are working as the should yet because I didn't want to start taking bits apart when I wasn't sure that it isn't the electrics that are playing up

I'll make a decision once I've checked that the cases hold pressure ( or not ).

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I'm almost ready to test the crank seals, just waiting for the pump attachments to turn up and I should be good to go

20160923_125036_zps82hxdv1u.jpg

I've also got another flywheel, stator and a set of pick ups to try out so one way or the other I should know why my nsr doesn't work

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Well I tried the other set of ignition pick ups which didn't make any difference at all.

So tomorrow I'm going to check if the crankcases hold pressure or not.

My mate dropped off the powder coating today so there's something I can do now while I'm sulking over the non running nsr

IMG-20160924-WA0002_zpshnbnjhnj.jpg

IMG-20160924-WA0003_zpspbm2csxz.jpg

And here's one with the rear wheel fitted

20160924_174353_zpstlbcreiv.jpg

Looks much better with appliance white wheels :)

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Being as I haven't got much to do on the bike I thought I'd have a go at making the forks look as good as the wheels.

When I was taking the wheel out the spindle felt a bit funny when it came out and after I took everything off it became clear as to why

IMG-20160927-WA0002_zpsewtmn2by.jpeg

After a quick check the right hand fork leg has a 3mm bend and the bottom yoke has also got a slight twist.  

To check it was the yoke as well as the fork that was bent I rotated the bent leg around in the yoke to see if it would line up with the other leg but it didn't

I should be getting another set of yokes next week and I'll have a go at un bending the fork as well.

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I started to rub down the discs today read for painting today and rather than spend ages trying to get them clean I thought I'd try an easy way

Here's the scabby items

20161001_213204_zps52hxvgbq.jpg

20161001_213216_zps3cf9k7vf.jpg

20161001_215226_zpsnehlmajc.jpg

20161001_215239_zps0gwo0wmp.jpg

Next I needed 8 litres of cheapo coke

20161001_213150_zps0nyfvrhq.jpg

And a bigish container to put it all in

20161001_215507_zpspabnrzf4.jpg

All going well I'll have some sparkly bits in the morning, or the coke will melt them all

 

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On 26/09/2016 at 0:00 AM, paul8899 said:

I managed to get the gauges on today and it looks like it's the centre seal that's gone.

There goes the cheap easy fix !

 

A lab seal is supposed to leak between each side of the seal.

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