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Nsr250 Mc21se Rothnans


paul8899
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I've looked into getting the short plug and I'll get one once I've saved up a bit , bloody £30 for a plug ! 

I'll be going up a grade on the plugs after last time on a track day 🤪

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On 7/13/2020 at 7:32 PM, paul8899 said:

I've looked into getting the short plug

Paul, I've a pair of TRS-1233B-Y caps that I'll let go for the right money.

50118373168_69f7c4e5b5_z.jpg

PM if they're any use to you. 🙂

Tony

Edited by Tony B
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On 7/13/2020 at 7:32 PM, paul8899 said:

I've looked into getting the short plug and I'll get one once I've saved up a bit , bloody £30 for a plug ! 

I'll be going up a grade on the plugs after last time on a track day 🤪

I probably have a spare shorty plug cap. I had been searching for a standard NSR front plug cap so could have done a swap before I spent a ridiculous amount of money shipping a NOS one from Japan 😂 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I decided that instead of buying a set of silencers I thought I'd have a go at making some.

I read on that forum the aprilia gp guys post on that they made their silencers so they were an extra expansion pipe so being as my nsr is basically a gp bike on the road ( ©️ PB 1990 ) I'd do the same , I can't remember if the aprilia guys said that it made any noticeable difference but having an extra 2 expansion pipes has to be better doesn't it ?

I decided on having the same fitment as tyga cans so that if I decide to get the pipework then I could use them , plus I could use the adapter plates I made :) Plus if I ever decide to get a set of tyga pipework I won't have to buy another pair of silencers.

So I fired up the cad and designed some tapered ends which ended up looking like these

50203043301_00e135de24_b.jpg2020-08-08_06-25-59 by paul, on Flickr

50203307142_4160896080_b.jpg2020-08-08_06-25-48 by paul, on Flickr

50230373597_83cd2fd3fe_b.jpg2020-08-15_09-09-57 by paul, on Flickr

Both ends have a 2.5 degree taper machined into them, the inlet goes from 20mm ( original pipework diameter ) to 32mm and the outlet pipe goes from 32mm to 25mm. I machined the inside section of the ends so they have a 1.5mm wall thickness and all of the tapped holes are blind so they shouldn't leak goo everywhere .

This is how they look fitted

50228903843_01b52bf57d_b.jpg2020-08-15_06-09-50 by paul, on Flickr

50228903203_0ed07e8163_b.jpg2020-08-15_06-09-39 by paul, on Flickr

Being as I've one all gp bike on the exhausts I went all out and got a go faster ht lead for the front cylinder, this was because the red matches the powerbands and also because the oe lead was about half an inch too short with the new heads fitted :)

50229763227_faaac616e2_b.jpg2020-08-15_06-09-15 by paul, on Flickr

There's a few little jobs left to do ( make some exhaust hangers and heat shrink the ht lead in place ) then the plan is to get it mot'd and ride it but the reality will probably be that I finish the jobs off and then I'll put it under a cover for another couple of years !

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On 8/16/2020 at 7:22 PM, lesviffer 750 said:

Need to get rid of them oem pipes, they weigh an absolute ton.

nah cut them get the mesh and packing then acid dip them for about 3 days then weld them back up 😉

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Interesting as always Paul. I agree with chaps above, ditch the standard pipes as they really are heavy and there is some real performance to be gained. 

On the aesthetic front. Can you not sink the mounting flange adapter piece further into the carbon can so you cant see it. it might be GP tech but It looks, well, just plain weird. 

I know it means remaking them (you love it anyway) but that triangular pieces wants to be round so it can include the mount holes for the silencer and be nice and flush.  

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Changing the pipes over for some better ones is on the list but I'll have to save up a bit first.

I did look into making the ends with the oe hole pattern in but I'd need a bigger sleeve and the next size available is 77mm which looked too big , another reason was that because of the position of the oe mounting holes I would have to rotate the screws holding the cans together and it looked odd having offset screws.

The adapter is just a plate , the tapers are inside the baffle tube. 

I will get the inlet end pieces anodised black so they won't be as visible but before I do that I want to make sure they don't fall to bits :)

I did look into curving the spouts but due to the length of the end caps I could only get a 2mm curve which would look worse than a straight outlet so I didn't bother.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/19/2020 at 1:32 PM, 2T Institue said:

nah cut them get the mesh and packing then acid dip them for about 3 days then weld them back up 😉

They work VERY well if you do that...they work well anyway.

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