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Aprilia Rs125/tuono Thing


noely02
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Well my 17/41 equals 9000 rpm and 75/80, not topped it out yet and I haven't the aerodynamic advantage if the fully faired rs125, so maybe someone in this bikes past had some sort of right idea.......or fluked the gearing.

Posted from Lanzarotte, drinking a tequila sunrise :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yep I'm unfortunately back, got back at 3am ish this morning.

Trying to get used to a 20° temperature difference :(

On a side note, if that world I.o.m tt tour thing ever happens Lanzarotte would be great, well when the e.u. finishes the roads, perfect weather, undulating roads including part lap up down and round a volcano, I'd go and watch

Edited by noely02
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  • 2 weeks later...

not much to report, been wallowing in my post holiday depression and daydreaming of poolside sunshine and beverages :mellow:

20140814_093140_zpsbf2132e2.jpg

but i did sort the horn, give it a clean and made a new bracket out of stainless, its a bit thicker gauge so hopefully it will last.

horn_zpsc2e88fae.jpg

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made a new bracket out of stainless, its a bit thicker gauge so hopefully it will last.

I made some thicker brackets for mounting some car horns to my bike and they didn't sound right (much too quiet) seems they needed to resonate a certain amount so I made some thinner ones out of spring steel, now they work great. Have you tried yours?

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well any extra work on the bike is on hold for the moment, my car, honda accord, has done a very un honda like thing and has taken a leaf out of the aprilias book and has started breaking down, exhaust, tyres, alarm going off when it feel like, hand brake not very good....and its mot is in 2 weeks :((

so it will be just add petrol, oil and ride

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  • 3 weeks later...

well dragged the f'n car through it m.o.t and got back to the bike.

had this arrive from germany

20140923_101935_zpsaefa0d05.jpg

and using the info supplied by rs125plus i fitted and adjusted it, but (what a surprise!!) it didn't go 100% as per the instructions.

there's supposed to be 7.5-8.5mm gap when at rest, but the best i could get it to was 9.2mm ish.

started it up and rev'd it a little and the solenoid moves so that's ok, observing the action the valve is open (solenoid pulled the rod right in) at tick-over, at around 3000 rpm valve closes, i know this is part of the clean cycle, but should the valve be open at tick-over?

i have carb from kayla ready to go on that i know is in a lot better condition than the one already on, but i have a query about reeds, do they wear out/have a life, and has anyone heard about flipping them over because the wear out by moving in the 1 direction and loosing some of the springyness?

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The valve is ment to be shut on tick over.

You can tell if reeds are worn by holding upto the sun and seeing if there's light coming threw. Best not to be stingy on replacement aprilia parts so if they are worn replace (good excuse to get some boyoseen or vforce reeds)

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only reason i was asking about flipping the reeds was i was looking around tinternet about them and on (i think) an american crosser site they had a guide and it was mentioned.

was browsing all the different ones on pjme's site, can'y justify the vforce ones, their standard ones are, if i've read it properly, £32ish delivered, but i did find these on fleabay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141095869521?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D141095869521%26_rdc%3D1

stooopid question, but are the reeds already carbon on the rs or are carbon an upgrade?

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had a couple of days now riding with the blade in and working, what a difference, it has midrange! well as much as a 125 stroker can :biggrinvk4:

no more having to try to keep it at 9000 so it doesn't bog down, it feels like its lost some top end, maybe hasn't because the mids filled out and it doesn't have the rush when it hits the power band, maybe i haven't got the blade set up properly, probably a combination of both, but on the upside i'm getting a few more miles out of it between fill ups.

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well it's running better and nothings fallen off in a while, (balls shouldn't have said that....) so time to sprinkle some glitter on this turd.

the bodywork that's on got a dose of autoglym and is brought it up for a while but it has faded again, so either its going to be a rattle can special, or having a crack at vinyl wrapping.

apparently the correct sort is 4 way stretch vinyl, just be careful if your at work when you google/ebay image search it.....

the side and lower fairings i have are in the same tired state

20140927_080138_zps81fbbda4.jpg

they got the hot air gun treatment to bring them up a bit, but again has faded over the months, so they will get a coat of mat black at some point, but i thought i'd check they fitted first, the uppers fit and someone has put some extra holes in the uppers to align up with the holes in the frame, i just need to measure and turn up some spacers for the other mounts.

the belly pan at first look the front holes didn't come any where near, so i measured up and made a bracket to fit on the bottom rad mount, but when i started to bolt everything together nothing aligned up, i wonder why....

belly_zps40562c7f.png

erm, on closer inspection, everything on around and holding the rad is bent in every direction possible, and the bottom of the rad has a nice ding in it too.

had a look at the exploded parts diagrams i have for the tuono 125 and i looks like the tuonos engine/rad mounts have a few extras on them for holding the belly pan so off to flebay for a search for the proper ones because new they are £80ish.

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mentioned in an earlier post i had a carb of kayla, well i thought i'd have a look in side before i fitted it, and like the one already on the bike the bottom of the throttle slide has a groove worn on it so adjusting the tickover is difficult to impossible, no problem i thought, just fill in the groove and file or machine it back flat, hmmm shall i break out the jb weld or use the services of my friendly neighbourhood welder....

welder matey looked at the slide, "yeah no problem, looks like a good quality ally casting, see what i can do..."

carbslide_zpse09d2939.jpg

:wtfmore:

melted and you can just see on the outside it has loads of little blisters, so i reckon its scrap, he thinks that the alloy has magnesium it by the way it reacted...bugger!

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  • 2 weeks later...

had my 1st ride home in the proper dark last night (ooooh scary!!!) and Christ the headlight is poor, i swear i turned it on and it got darker!

time to invest in a night-breaker bulb, or maybe a genuine Chinese fake copy fleabay h.i.d. one........

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well the chain has developed a horrendous tight spot, so while the new one is on order i took it off to give it a thorough clean and soak it in oil, well its definitely had it.

the fact i could probably tie it in a bow doesn't help

20141021_104255_zps4442f6d3.jpg

that's about 100mm deflection over 300mm

split link:

20141021_102920_zps0d91a29c.jpg

i measured the steps, they're about 0.25mm per side, if the pins in the chain are the same, thats 0.5mm X 106 rollers = LOADS

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well the night breaker bulb went in, and have gone from seeing not a lot, to seeing a little more with a slightly blue tint.....balls

i can't believe these lights are legal, down right dangerous, and especially as the clocks went back i'm riding with the main beam on just to see where i'm going.

is this a bike thing or an italian thing, chatting with a mate who has an alfa, has the same h1 bulbs for headlight and main beam and they're shocking too.

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All my aprilias over the years were very bright and full beam was enough to make cars flash at you all the time. Never had a problem with the headlights being to dim tbh. So must be something not right with your bike. Check the voltage going to the headlight to make sure it's getting the correct amount of juice

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now why didn't i think of that :facepalm:

so if the bulb isn't getting enough juice, what would the likely culprits be?

matey with the alfa sort of solved his by using "for off road rally use only" 12v 100w bulbs

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as poster said above - it could be the wires are becoming 'resistance wire'

reducing the current - earths are bad on these bikes - and the switches are cheap

I'd put a relay using the old wire and switches - and direct wires of 100 watt capability to the bulb.

and bingo your lights should be better (the reflectors also dull and the clear plastic lens

also scratches and yellows

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I assume the projector (right side) lens is the low beam and the reflector on the left is the high beam? Try installing a HID kit?

I'm guessing something like this would work:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XENON-HID-CONVERSION-AC-35W-SLIM-BALLAST-KIT-H1-H3-H7-H9-H11-HB3-9005-HB4-9006-/330789047472?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d04904cb0

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