Jump to content

Aprilia Rs125/tuono Thing


noely02
 Share

Recommended Posts

as mentioned in an earlier post, the cables are different from the rs to the tuono, the throttle cables i have got away with just making a 40mm bracket with a couple of holes in it to move the part that holds all the cables together further towards the front of the bike, its all hidden beside the battery box so it doesn't look too bad, sure beats paying £40ish for the genuine ones, but i've had to buy a proper choke cable.

Chokecable_zps1e2165e8.jpg

just a little difference in length :facepalm:

Edited by noely02
Link to comment
Share on other sites

another little thing i've found, this may or not be the reason the power valve cable is giving me grief, on the left is the bracket holding the top of my radiator on, the one on the right is a genuine fleabay one

RadbrktCOMPARISON_zps0c276c94.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

got the rear wheel out to give it the once over, on one of the old mot's there was an advisory for the wheel bearings, well the bike has been dropped at some point and the rear spindle was ground to a nice angle, and the nut was rather mullered too.

i had got another spindle from ebay so after borrowing a 26mm socket using a little brute force and ignorance the wheel came out.

stripping everyting apart it looked ok, i checked against the parts diagrams i have and it is missing an oil seal and a snap ring.

aprilia want £8 for the snap ring and £16 for the oil seal!!

i'm going to measure up and make myself a snap ring, and taking the dimensions off the other seal (35 x 47 x 7) i went onto www.simplybearings.co.uk and have ordered 2 nitrile rotary shaft oil seals with garter springs for £5.09 delivered :finger:

i popped off the dust seals from the wheel bearings, ultrasonically cleaned them, re packed them with grease and put the seals on, good as new

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

spent an hour or so putting a few more thing on the bike, back wheel in with the brake calliper, and it is now sitting on its own wheels and not axel stands.

exhaust is on and i'm in the process of making a rear hanger for the end can, and i'm still pondering what to do with the power valve cable routing.

but as per usual......put the battery on, turned the ignition on, and its alive! well sort of, i have working lights and indicators, the engine turns over, but the neutral light doesn't come on, well thats because theres no lead connected to the sender and god knows where its gone and the lcd display doesn't work.

anyone have any ideas on how to test if its ok, i'll be having a google about them, i think its a 50/50 chance of it either being something to do with the loom or the display itself is kaput.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

after a flurry of spannering over the last few days the bike is within shouting distance of being mot'd, so i thought i would have a go at making it look prettyer ^_^

the tank was already off so i started with that, and after couple of hours armed with a heat gun, scotchbrite pad, wd40, water, 1500 grit wet and dry and autoglym it came up ok, but now you can see all the dents, gouges and scratches in it.

20140529_174507_zpsa6d5ce60.jpg

20140529_174521_zpsd2459ae9.jpg

20140603_131815_zpsa12e3d16.jpg

20140603_132822_zps3457d956.jpg

ooh shiney.....note the retro pb stickers on my toolbox

Edited by noely02
Link to comment
Share on other sites

had a delivery today, mmmmmm o.e. goodness!

20140606_075907_zps84d5b84f.jpg

i know i could source / make these bits myself, but work is getting in the way of doing it myself :iconthumbsdownkq8:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

power valve cable problem sorted, well i hope, had a play and a measure and decided to move the solenoid back the lenght of the bracket it's on, theres enough space there.

pit of a play on my cad-cam and onto the wire eroder = 1 bracket

20140609_134924_zps6857aba7.jpg

20140609_143941_zps5d940727.jpg

Edited by noely02
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i am looking at making a little spacer or a strap to move it away a little, but today i'm bleeding the bleeding brakes :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

front brake took me about 15 mins to do, but as for the back one.....why is it taking so long, why am i being dripped on, where is that coming from????.....turns out that the hose that goes from the reservoir to the master cylinder has been worn through by the chain, quick rummage around in the stores at work and a suitable pipe is found :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

with a working (ish) front brake, controls and levers on, fresh gallon of bp's finest, air in the tyres and a topped up battery i decided to wake it up.

20140613_162613_zps69367010.jpg

ok, the tanks off because after cranking it over for a bit without life, i took it off to see if i forgot to connect somthing, erm, well, yes bikes usually run better when the plug cap is on the spark plug :getmecoat:

it lives again, and just like before a 2 stroke haze descended on billingshurst, tick over was a little high but i can adjust that out.

jumped on and had a little spin around the car park, results:

brakes need bedding in a bit

picks up well, no stuttering and takes off with a zing at 7000ish

sounds crisp (ok after a few zips up the carpark i was imagining i was on the start grid of a mid 90's 125 gp race)

braked definitely need bedding in (TREE!!!!)

got it up to 3rd gear, changes nice without any crunching but i need to adjust the foot lever up and i and to adjust the clutch plates as soon as i get or make the special spanner.

surprisingly large turning circle

so after 1 carbs worth of fuel gone i pushed it back to where it lives to check if anything had fallen off, no. tank back on and start again, now the tickover is up and down and tries to die, but is saved by adding a bit of choke for a sec, and the starter screams when you use it.

i'm happy so i cover it up and go home with a bit of a stupid grin on my mush

i have got a little vid of it running and polluting the countryside but i can't work out how to post it from photobucket

Edited by noely02
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

aaaaannd i really should look into getting a lock set, bike really shouldn't run when i take the key out of the ignition in the on position should it?

had a quick google about the starter, look like an easy fix, 2 bolts, strip, clean and add a little molybdenum grease, i'll start that tomorrow

Edited by noely02
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work. good to see it running again.

I have to ask though, what is going on with that pillion seat? its looks like such an afterthough compared to the standard RS one!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it is the right seat, it is different to the regular rs125 one that looks like its part of the tail unit

Tuo2_zps6250bf3c.jpg

not mine just one i got of google as a reference

Link to comment
Share on other sites

got the starter off, 2 bolts and a bit of a wiggle, was looking a little dirty

20140617_101225_zps17dffeb6.jpg

only took a couple of mins to strip it down, bit manky inside but not as bad as i thought it would be

20140617_101852_zps134a668b.jpg

gave it a blow off with the air line, cleaned and lubed it up

20140617_112705_zps78128050.jpg

and back together

20140617_125533_zps8bfc7ddb.jpg

back on the bike and the difference is amazing, starts up 1st touch of the button and no squealing

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

looks like I've solved the erratic tick-over, one of my mates noticed that the exhaust wasn't seated properly to the barrel, you could see daylight between the exhaust and the barrel at the bottom, so i loosened off everything, propped up the exhaust with a bottle jack and re did the bolts up.

started up and sits at just over 1000rpm nicely.

i know why this happened, the exhaust is a bit Frankenstein, the exhaust has been welded to the exhaust flange and it is loosing that little bit of flexibility that it needs due to the vibrations from the engine, the centre flexible mount is on but in this current state really doesn't do much to help.

not really happy having a solidly mounted exhaust on the bike, something is going to break an knowing my luck it will end up being expensive so I'm going to start looking for a replacement exhaust.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got a spare exhaust and flange here from a 2007 RS125 you can have for the price of postage if it's any use, or arrange to have it collected if you like. It's no use to me and I won't be able to sell it. It's solid but needs a refurb.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

looking a bit better now, just needs a lick of paint

20140627_155556_zps8ff2f0c6.jpg

even though i had safety glasses and a face mask the flying rust still got me, think i'm going to have black snot for at least a week

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20140703_100839_zpsa590bea4.jpg

painted, will be putting it all back on later, dangerously close to sending it for mot :unsure:

Edited by noely02
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...