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Aprilia Rs125/tuono Thing


noely02
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i'm looking into that, there's a place local to me who are quoiting, and i've asked at work too, either that or ill have a go with the nitromors and hammerite myself

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had a little good news on the wheel front, my boss has no problem me getting the wheel done through the company, and i can pay for it weekly through our tool club, and also if i want anything hard anodising, when the next order goes out i can add anything i want doing to it, as long as i want it done black

Edited by noely02
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been quoted £60 for powder coating the wheel by keep powder coating in shoreham, seems reasonable, but then again that is about 1/4 of what i paid for the bike............ :dribble:

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emailed them, and got a very quick reply:

Hi Noel,

A pair of wheels cost £89, that is assuming they are just painted now and
not already powder coated. The carriage is £25 each way . All prices are
plus vat.

If I can help further please don’t hesitate to get in touch.

Regards,

Andy

so unfortunately that's £166.80 including vat for a pair, also the place i was quoted from www.keeppowdercoating.co.uk is literally 10mins drive so no carrige costs

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  • 2 weeks later...

the front fairing frame was looking a bit un loved so i attacked it with the wire brush and half a can of hammerites finest later

fairingframebeforeafter_zps8743b3f9.jpg

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So i've decided to have a look at the wiring, want to get the front end back on as its all done (sort of!) and i need to wire in the new indicators, i had noticed that there was spade connectors instead of the standard bullet connectors on the wiring, i suppose to be expected really for a bike of this age, but on stripping and chasing back to the loom i found:

5 spade connectors

3 bullet connectors of i'm guessing halfords vintage

8 different wires, 5 different colours and 3 different thickness's

electrical tape

gaffer tape

and a plaster!

this was for 4 wires in roughly 300mm in length! :facepalm:

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well all the offending parts have been removed, and new wires will be soldered and heat shrinked on

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had a rather productive afternoon, actually putting things onto the bike instead of taking them off, got the grips, levers and controls on the bars.

so decided to have a look at the rear brake, came off no problem, the fluid that was i there was like rusty water, but its getting replaced anyway, can anyone spot whats wrong here?

20140412_075221_zpsb2dea8cc.jpg

think the pads need replacing too........

20140412_103007_zpsa9bcf2b6.jpg

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got the remains of the bleed nipple out, but its an odd size, 6mm, where most are 8mm, and after i went to my local accessory shop, who recommend i try the yamaha dealer, who said i should try the kawasaki dealer, who also do ducati, which have brembo on them, so they should have them, well they didn't, but can get a genuine aprilia one in for wednesday for £9.something or other, didn't hear the rest of the price with me saying rather loudly "frack me!!"

on a side note, if you ever have a chance to visit alfs kawasaki worthing, by the workshop is a collection of virtually every 90's wsb bike you can think of and a few other race bikes

so if anyone who reads this has a nipple ( :dribble: ) and doesn't want £9 for it let me know

Edited by noely02
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AAAAARRRRGGGGG!!!!! :eusa_wall:

1 step forward and 3 back....well after successfully mounting all the controls, routing the cables where they're supposed to go, either the cable doesn't reach or if it does won't move.

quick cross reference on www.apriliagenuineparts.co.uk and the part numbers for the clutch, throttle and choke are all different, bugger, i'm guessing they're slightly longer for the raised bars, but £65 plus delivery for new ones hmmmmmm

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bleed nipple problem solved, www.vwheritage.com do a 6mm x 28mm long one for £3.50 delivered, it's about 5mm to long but i can live with that, and i've measured it up to make myself one out of stainless later.

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  • 2 weeks later...

thanks kayla, i think i know how aprilia has been keeping afloat all these years, charging a fortune for small bits that teenage riders will loose easily on rs125's!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

thanks to the combined efforts of kayla and wazrs i have a front wheel in the bike, yay!

but the old yin yang kicked in again, decided to drain the gearbox oil for, should the drain plug be furry, should the oil have been blacky grey and really smelly? :o i'm tempted to investigate further, but also tempted to go for ignorance is bliss!!

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The drain plug's magnetic so it might have some filings on it (both of mine did when we changed the oil in them) but it shouldn't be emulsified. Does the engine run? It might be an idea to put fresh, cheap oil in, get it warmed up and drop the oil to try and flush any rubbish out. It's only 600ml so you can do it a few times from a £20 4L bottle and still have enough left for another few oil changes :)

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the engine did run, couldn't check if i could select gears due to the levers being mashed, i agree with you about the oil, when eventually it gets on the road i'll run it for a bit and do another change, i have no idea when any of the fluids were last changed so i'm changing them all for a little piece of mind

Edited by noely02
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can anyone advise me on how the power valve cable, the one that goes to the blade, is routed, i've put mine on and it turns right back on itself in a bend that i think is way too sharp, and it also is against the radiator, it's like the cable is too long, or i need to move the solenoid back by at least 50mm

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I'll try to remember to get a pic tomorrow morning, although I moved the solenoid to outside the frame so it's easier to get to to clean. The cable does seem to go through quite a tight bend though.

As an aside, I don't suppose you have a spare Tuono top yoke?

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has anyone had any experience over boring carburettors?

i know ideally i need the 34mm but as funds are tight at the moment, and i have access to machinery, was wondering if i could take the standard carb out a mm or so.

you can but you need to bore it offset not central i seem to remember or bad things will happen

i know its a hazy reply but i am on my second bottle of wine

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well this is what mine looks like, i removed the solenoid from its mounting to see how far i would have to move it to get a nice curve but the cable got very flappy and i couldn't adjust the slack out, i think i needs a bit of a bend to get the correct tension.

20140509_154255_zpsdb4d8652.jpg

while pondering this i had a tidy up of the wiring to make a little space, cable ties were my friend today!

thoughts on the power valve:

1: peg it full open, sure it will be fun for a while but would probably get annoying trying to keep it in the power band.

2: buy the pneumatic version (rave1?)

3:have a go at shortening the cable myself.

sorry kayla i have no spare parts for the thing, i just keep finding things i need :sFun_doh2:

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The solenoid on the spare RS we got was mounted on the inside of the right side of the frame, on the steel bracket that holds the engine and battery box/coolant header. I've mounted the one on the race bike outside the frame casting where the steel bracket bolts on. Sorry I haven't had time to take the fairings off but the RAVE cable shouldn't bend as sharply as yours.

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yep the solenoid is mounted the same on this one, only other thing it could be is the replacement cable i got is wrong, but i chucked out the old cable before the new one arrived so i couldn't compare.

thats the "joy" of sorting this bike out ,because its a mix of models all sorts of little things keep cropping up

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